When it comes to diversity - many operatives merely use it for their own exclusive advantage, seeking to have their long time adversaries to unilaterally "disarm".
In the case of Essence Magazine there is the case of a "Black power" institution (ie: an entity that has the power to hire, fire and has a certain level of economic wherewithal). They stay true their mission for diversity by hiring the person who they believe is most qualified to lead an important division of the company.
In response to their decision to hire a White woman in a pivotal role some Black readers threaten to cancel their magazine subscription in protest.
We all know the likely defenses: "Since Vogue and Elle would never hire a Black person as their fashion director, why should the Black magazine, Essence, do anything similar by hiring a White?
I didn't realize that there was such a "quid pro quo" or arbitrary conditionalism involved with "diversity"? It was sold as the "right thing to do".
If we consider the quantity of job opportunity seats under "White control" as compared with those under the control of Blacks such a response that is triggered based on this woman's race is not strategically sound.
Writer, stylist, and cultural critic Michaela Angela Davis stirred up controversy when she tweeted, "It is with a heavy heavy heart I have learned that Essence magazine has engaged a white fashion director, this hurts, literally, spiritually." Davis worked at Essence as fashion editor, was the founding fashion director of Vibe, and served as the editor-in-chief of Honey magazine. She told Clutch:
Offering her immediate reaction to the hiring, Michaela says, “I am so so hurt and confused and frankly angry by this news. I feel like a girlfriend has died.” Michaela’s tweets and Facebook comments on the hiring informed many media insiders, and former Essence staff members who had no clue... Michaela says her feelings on the news have much to do with black women’s hostile history with the fashion industry. Further explaining her concerns around the issue, Michaela wrote on Facebook: “It is personal and it’s also professional. If there were balance in the industry; if we didn’t have a history of being ignored and disrespected; if more mainstream fashion media included people of color before the ONE magazine dedicated to black women ‘diversified’, it would feel different.”
The new fashion director is Ellianna Placas, who has worked at O: The Oprah Magazine and Us Weekly. Commenters on Facebook have called Davis's point of view "reverse racism," but that's not quieting a whole lot of upset people:
Joan Morgan, an award-winning journalist, author and long-time writer for Essence says she could care less how qualified the brand’s new white Fashion Director could be. “This is about the fact that the publishing industry, particularly when it comes to mainstream women’s magazines remains just about as segregated in its hiring practices as it did in 1988.” Joan referenced a 1988 Folio article about Blacks who are discouraged by the publishing industry’s “laissez-faire attitude toward recruitment.” Joan says, “When these same institutions (naming Conde Nast, Hachette and others) start to employ hiring practices that allow Black publishing professionals the same access to their publications, that’s when I can get all ‘Kumbaya’ about Essence‘s new fashion director.”
Others still are threatening to stop buying the magazine.
3 comments:
"Others still are threatening to stop buying the magazine."
And isn't this is what it's all about? The fashion industry and accompanying magazines is one big vanity trip for people whose identity is invested in what they wear on their backs and the accompanying bobbles and bangles. It's all about seeing me, me, me reflected positively and gloriously in the models and the articles. Magazines of this genre hope to make money off of those who can be convinced to buy into an image manufactured by others especially for them.
Bottom line, these magazines are selling "feel-good" for money, for themselves and the clothes companies. If enough readers of Essence find it distasteful that a White woman is the new fashion director and their "feel-good" is ruined by it, they need to voice their dissatisfaction (which they are doing) and more importantly, speak with their pocketbooks. Diversity is what Whites are programmed to be all hung up about ... to pay their carefully manufactured guilt-penance to the Diversity Gods, and at the same time getting a Black face in the crowd to draw in the Black dollar. Diversity is not something a Black magazine needs to worry about, for they are selling "Black." If Essence readers can deny themselves their fix for Black fashion and stop purchasing for a while, the White Overlords and their Black Frontmen at Essence will sit up and take notice when it hits their pocketbooks. I find forcing "diversity" on anyone wrong, especially in private industry. You know your market and who you want to sell to, the image you want to portray to attract and keep those who butter your bread. Hire the people that help you achieve those goals.
So leave Vogue and Elle alone ... when they start losing money they will have to re-think their strategies but for now I guess they're raking it in ... no lack of European women who will pay to read articles of interest to them and see themselves positively and gloriously reflected in a couple glossy pages of "feel good."
Anon -
Do you believe that a Coca Cola or an IBM should be allowed to "hire who brought them to where they are"?
I only ask for CONSISTENCY.
"Do you believe that a Coca Cola or an IBM should be allowed to 'hire who brought them to where they are'"?
Yes. I believe this.
I also believe Essence has the right to hire who brought them where they are. I don't read Essence (or Vogue or Elle for that matter so maybe I shouldn't even be commenting!) but ... Essence seems to me to be selling emotional feelings, pride, "feel-good", encouragement, accomplishments, a dream ... it is different than what IBM or Coca-Cola is selling, which are in a way more straight-forward items.
I understand you ask for consistency. I agree law should be applied consistently and impartially. I guess this is why I said ... I think forced diversity is wrong for private industry. And yes, I think it is a bit hypocritical to demand others hire "diversity" but you yourself are exempt. I guess it is setting up a world where ... everything works towards one group's particular favor ... not a good recipe for a healthy society but ... that seems to be how the world works.
Olive
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